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| surfing and health book: Surfing and Health Dorian Paskowitz, 1998 |
| surfing and health book: Surf Survival Andrew Nathanson, Clayton Everline, Mark Renneker, 2019-07-02 Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen. |
| surfing and health book: Surfing & Health Joel Steinman, 2009-06-01 Expert medical adviceTreatment of injuriesNutrition for surfersTHE BOOKSurfing & Health is a must for surfers and all health professionals related to this fantastic sport.Offering a fundamental and complete A to Z guide covering all major aspects of surfers' health, it offers expert medical advice on acute and chronic surfing injuries, including treatment, rehabilitation and preventative strategies based on PILATES core training exercises. This book includes topics on travelers' disease, hypothermia, skin cancer prevention, shark attacks and other marine animal accidents, women's surfing, and in-depth information on physical training, nutrition advice, psychological strategies to improve concentration and performance. The book also includes a first aid chapter for beach assessment and intervention |
| surfing and health book: Surfing and Health Dorian Paskowitz, M.d., 2017-01-22 Doc Paskowitz started surfing in the Gulf of Mexico on Galveston Island in 1930. He's 93, and he's still surfing ( now riding in heaven) While he would never agree, Doc can be considered one of the earliest pioneers of the shape of today's surf culture. He spent nearly 25 years on the road, living in a succession of used campers. It is, quite possibly, the world's longest surf trip. He and his wife raised nine children in those campers, soaking them in the ocean and their idea of how life should be lived. Take a trip with Doc Paskowitz and his family. This easy read is honest and can help you understand his passion for Surfing and Health, |
| surfing and health book: Surfer's Code Shaun Tomson, 2006 In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to the business world today. For Tomson, surfing is a hobby, a sport, a religion, an obsession and more-it is a way of life. Tomson's life lessons have guided his career to the top of both professional competition and the world of business. Now, he shares these powerful lessons, born on the world's best swells, with all people-including those who might never step on a surfboard. These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of every day life. I tell people that I didn't develop or create the code. I simply wrote down what was out there all the time in my heart and in the hearts of many surfers, always there but sometimes overlooked. I like to think the code was always there, a part of every surfer's life, unspoken maybe, but in our hearts, ever since the ancient Polynesians started surfing so many thousands of years ago. -Shaun Tomson Just a few of the lessons shared in Tomson's Surfer's Code: I Will Never Turn My Back on the Ocean I Will Take the Drop with Commitment I Will Never Fight a Rip Tide I Will Always Paddle Back Out I Will Watch Out For Other Surfers There Will Always Be Another Wave I Will Catch a Wave Every Day All Surfers Are Connected By One Ocean |
| surfing and health book: Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume , 1998-06 Imagine surfing a perfect blue wave off a deserted beach of sparkling white sand. This book takes us back to a time when the earliest surfers were busy inventing the first American beach culture. The beautiful and nostalgic photographs that surfer Don James took of himself and his friends from 1936-46 capture the lost Eden of the California surf dream in all its glory and innocence. Over 100 sepia photos. |
| surfing and health book: Barbarian Days William Finnegan, 2016-04-26 **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art. |
| surfing and health book: Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die Chris Santella, 2019-04-09 Covering famed surf spots all over the world, this unique full-color gift book and travel guide invites you to discover such unexpected gems as the Amazon and the Gulf of Alaska. From the frigid waters off Iceland’s Reykjanes Peninsula to Nazaré, Portugal, where in 2013 Garrett McNamara broke a world record for surfing the tallest wave (78 feet!), highlights also include: North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii Gold Coast, Australia Malibu, California Faroe Islands, Denmark Cocoa Beach, Florida Hossegor, France Grajagan, Indonesia Montauk, New York Thurso, Scotland Jeffreys Bay, South Africa And dozens more! Fifty Places to Surf takes readers on a wide-roving adventure, divulging the details that make each venue unique—and plenty of tips for those who aspire to surf there. Author Chris Santella writes in his introduction, “Surfing means different things to different people. For some it might mean longboarding mellow chest-high waves in board shorts, followed by a great sushi dinner; for others it may mean donning a six-millimeter wetsuit to brave near-freezing waters and triple overheads. Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die attempts to capture the spectrum of surfing experiences—from beginner-friendly to downright death-defying.” Featuring interviews with seasoned surfing experts such as pro surfer Joel Parkinson and Billabong executive Shannan North, Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die is an essential travel companion for surfers of all levels who are looking to catch that perfect wave. |
| surfing and health book: Surfing Illustrated : A Visual Guide to Wave Riding John Robison, 2010-04-16 Expert instruction you need to take your skills from kook to boss Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures-- comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrate every aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques, etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining, easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easy for you to pick up his techniques and use them on the waves. Robison covers every aspect of the sport, from paddling out through the surf zone and catching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics, shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs. |
| surfing and health book: AFROSURF Mami Wata, 2021-06-15 Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children. |
| surfing and health book: Fit to Surf Rocky Snyder, 2003-06-23 Fit to Surf, a cutting-edge surfing-specific fitness guide, supplies surfers of all levels of experience with everything they need to create a personal fitness program that builds strength and endurance, increases balance and coordination, and minimizes the risk of injury. Personal trainer Rocky Snyder--himself an avid surfer with two decades of experience riding the waves--provides easy to-follow, step-by-step instructions supplemented with 60photographs of conditioning exercises that can be performed at home, in the gym, or on the water. |
| surfing and health book: Surfing Uncertainty Andy Clark, 2015-10-02 How is it that thoroughly physical material beings such as ourselves can think, dream, feel, create and understand ideas, theories and concepts? How does mere matter give rise to all these non-material mental states, including consciousness itself? An answer to this central question of our existence is emerging at the busy intersection of neuroscience, psychology, artificial intelligence, and robotics. In this groundbreaking work, philosopher and cognitive scientist Andy Clark explores exciting new theories from these fields that reveal minds like ours to be prediction machines - devices that have evolved to anticipate the incoming streams of sensory stimulation before they arrive. These predictions then initiate actions that structure our worlds and alter the very things we need to engage and predict. Clark takes us on a journey in discovering the circular causal flows and the self-structuring of the environment that define the predictive brain. What emerges is a bold, new, cutting-edge vision that reveals the brain as our driving force in the daily surf through the waves of sensory stimulation. |
| surfing and health book: Sick Surfers Ask the Surf Docs & Dr. Geoff Mark Renneker, Kevin Starr, Geoff Booth (M.D.), 1993 This book gives surfers the answers they need now! How to prevent surfing's health problems; Diagnosing yourself and on-the-beach treatment techniques; What to do when you can't solve the problem yourself The book is easy-to-use, fun to read and gives fast and complete answers. Written in surfer's language by hard-core surfer-physicians from the infamous surfing doctor's health columns of Surfer magazine and Australia's Tracks. Some of the topics covered include: CPR and Rescue Techniques for Surfers; Sharks and Other Critters; Surfer's Ear and Eye Problems; Back, Knee, Skin, and Shoulder Problems; Surf Travel Medicine; Nutrition. |
| surfing and health book: Let My People Go Surfing Yvon Chouinard, 2016-09-06 Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope. —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. |
| surfing and health book: Surf Shack Nina Freudenberger, Heather Summerville, 2017-04-11 Cabin porn goes coastal in Nina Freudenberger’s Surf Shack [Vanity Fair], and here are bungalows, trailers, cabins, and beach homes where surfers retreat after a day on the waves. Peek inside the homes of longtime enthusiasts and dedicated newcomers that reflect not just a sport or passion, but also a way of life. Blake and Heather Mycoskie of TOMS, hotelier Sean MacPherson, Gypset author Julia Chaplin, and others have set up their spaces to embrace a casual ease and be the break between the waves. With vibrant photographs of design details and bright beaches—from Malibu to the Rockaways, from Japan to Australia—this book captures the soulful milieu of a lifestyle we all aspire to. A colorful tour of some of the most unique surfer abodes around the world, from Melbourne to New York City. —Architectural Digest |
| surfing and health book: Surfing and Health Dorian Paskowitz, 1998* |
| surfing and health book: Papa Surfs: A Children's Book about What Surfing Teaches You George Alex Popescu, 2019-02-18 Surfing taught me a lot, from learning patience to learning how to commit to a wave. People who surf are healthier for longer. This is a children's book hoping to inspire the desire to surf into children. Surfing leads to travel as well. Through the adventures of Papa in 12 beautiful locations around the world, this book shows and teaches young children all the good sides of surfing. |
| surfing and health book: Cocaine + Surfing Chas Smith, 2018-06-12 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and 'Big Wednesday,' was one of mild outlaws - tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water... Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion... 'Cocaine + Surfing' peels the curtains back on a hopped-up, sometimes sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.--Inside jacket flap. |
| surfing and health book: I Surf, Therefore I Am Peter Kreeft, 2008 |
| surfing and health book: Fletcher: A Lifetime in Surf Dibi Fletcher, 2019-10-29 Through fifty years of epic stories, art, and personal ephemera, The Fletcher Family spans surfing's golden era to the present day, when bathing-suit model Dibi and competitive surfer Herbie met, to raising talented Christian and Nathan on boards and waves, to passing the torch to their skating-phenom grandson, Greyson. Herbie Fletcher is a surfing legend. Fletcher and his sons, Christian and Nathan, made a habit of doing things exceptionally well and in their own way before they became the norm. But the Fletchers are not merely trailblazing surf and skate legends; they also are counterculture and subculture icons. T Magazine referred to them as having punk family values. Their sincere love for art and surfing and their collective DGAF attitude has earned them legions of devoted fans and friends from so many different worlds: music, fashion, streetwear, and art. The epitome of both surfer cool and punk counterculture, the Fletcher family for the first time has put together a window into their immensely colorful life. A visual memoir of this near-mythological surf family, The Fletcher Family is sure to appeal to their massive surfing fan base, young skaters, and those who are interested in the Fletcher family and their place in Southern California as a subcultural force of nature. |
| surfing and health book: Scratching the Horizon Izzy Paskowitz, Daniel Paisner, 2012-08-21 Surfer Izzy Paskowitz looks back at unusual upbringing, reckless young adulthood, and being the founder of Surfers Healing, a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing. |
| surfing and health book: Empire in Waves Scott Laderman, 2014-01-18 Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches, bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and repression of the long twentieth century. Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii, spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World, tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach Boys, and the film Blue Crush. From nineteenth-century American empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people worldwide. Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our globalized world. |
| surfing and health book: Sugar Surfing Stephen W. Ponder, 2015-05-16 |
| surfing and health book: Surf Science Tony Butt, 2014-03-25 Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves. |
| surfing and health book: Women on Waves Jim Kempton, 2021-07-06 A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—the Sport of Queens—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors. |
| surfing and health book: The Average Surfer's Guide Simon Short, 2018-11-14 Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast Short uses the term average not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session - The Orange County Register From the author of A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen. Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing. |
| surfing and health book: Groundswell Katie Lee, 2012-05-29 If you liked Eat, Pray, Love, then read Groundswell. —US Weekly (Essential Summer Read selection) A compulsively readable novel charting the highs and lows of love (Jen Lancaster) about a young woman recovering from divorce who finds healing—and romance—through surfing. A butterfly flaps its wings in New York City...and a groundswell forms in Mexico. Sometimes the biggest ripples come from the smallest events. Like the day that novice PA Emma Guthrie walks into world-famous movie star Garrett Walker’s trailer. When she walks out, she’s on her way to becoming Mrs. Emma Walker, trading her jeans and flip-flops for closets full of Chanel and the start of a successful screenwriting career. But when an incriminating text message throws her marriage into question, Emma flees New York City for a sleepy coastal town in Mexico. Here, she meets gorgeous, California-born Ben, who teaches her about the healing powers of surfing, shows her the joys of the simple life, and opens her up to the possibility of love. An irresistible insider’s glimpse into a glittering world, Katie Lee’s debut novel is a captivating story about how losing everything you thought you wanted can be the first step to finding what you need. |
| surfing and health book: West of Jesus Steven Kotler, 2008-12-01 After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself. |
| surfing and health book: Unstoppable Me Adam Dirks, 2018-06-05 Unstoppable Me, written by New York Times bestselling author and champion surfer Bethany Hamilton with husband, Adam Dirks, tells the story of Makana the surfing lion who finds courage and discovers the importance of never giving up. |
| surfing and health book: The Surfer and the Sage Noah Benshea, Shaun Tomson, 2022-06-07 Sometimes life's waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless, on a wave of malaise. But the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light. World champion surfer Shaun Tomson and Pultizer-nominated poet Noah benShea join forces to guide you down a path of purpose, hope, and faith. This gentle guidebook alternates between Tomson's essays relating the surf experience to life's big waves and benShea's spiritual commentary, accented with full-color surfing photographs. After losing his son, Tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light.The Surfer and the Sage addresses the ten relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and aging to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. It is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with faith and hope. |
| surfing and health book: The Now Effect Elisha Goldstein, 2012-02-21 Dr. Goldstein takes the mindfulness approach of helping people to connect to the present moment one step further by offering practical techniques to make deep, permanent life changes and alleviate stress, ease pain, and cultivate emotional freedom. |
| surfing and health book: Roaming: Roark's Adventure Atlas Beau Flemister, 2022-03-29 An action sports adventurer’s bucket list of exciting and unexpected destinations around the globe as lived and told by iconic surfers, skaters, climbers, and riders. An unconventional photographic guidebook to adventure, featuring images, intel, itineraries, tales, and testimonies collected by Roark’s expert guides. The book documents the routes of a group of iconic surfers, climbers, skaters, and other adventurers seeking full cultural and thrill-seeking immersion. Including journeys to 16 global destinations illustrating the road less traveled, from surf expeditions to Iceland, the Falkland Islands, or Jamaica, to motorcycle journeys through Nepal, rock climbing in Argentina to cliff jumping in Northern Vietnam, and more. World-renowned photographers Chris Burkard, Dylan Gordon, Jeff Johnson, Drew Smith, and Chris McPherson uniquely capture faraway images and the wayward spirit of those that seek adventure—if not a little danger—in an increasingly tame world. The modern bible for anyone interested in charting an adventure with improbable itineraries across the globe, or the mere appreciation for photography that transports you to a place only found in dreams. |
| surfing and health book: The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean Kim Dwinell, 2021-12-15 The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time. |
| surfing and health book: Surf Is Where You Find It Gerry Lopez, 2015-04-17 Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere. |
| surfing and health book: Big Wave Surfer Kai Lenny, 2021-10-26 A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes. |
| surfing and health book: Surf by Day, Jam by Night Ash Grunwald, 2019-08-19 Surf by Day, Jam by Night is seasoned bluesman and surfer Ash Grunwald’s deep dive into the extraordinary. Ash takes to the road, interviewing 15 of the world’s top surfer–musicians. From Kelly Slater to Stephanie Gilmore, Jack Johnson to Dave Rastovich, Pete Murray to G. Love and many more, like Ash, these are people doing life their own way. Soulful and candid, these conversations offer insights into the lives and minds of some masters of both surfing and music. Spanning stories of heavy wipe-outs and heaving crowds and riffs on style, the flow state, career longevity and jamming vs shredding, this book is an often light-hearted, wide-ranging meditation on what it really takes to live your dreams. If you’ve ever found yourself in any kind of rut and wondered if there’s something more out there, here’s a call to wake up, take your life into your hands and dare to follow your passions. |
| surfing and health book: Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell Chas Smith, 2013-11-19 A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world. |
| surfing and health book: Surfer Girls in the New World Order Krista Comer, 2010-09-28 In Surfer Girls in the New World Order, Krista Comer explores surfing as a local and global subculture, looking at how the culture of surfing has affected and been affected by girls, from baby boomers to members of Generation Y. Her analysis encompasses the dynamics of international surf tourism in Sayulita, Mexico, where foreign women, mostly middle-class Americans, learn to ride the waves at a premier surf camp and local women work as manicurists, maids, waitresses, and store clerks in the burgeoning tourist economy. In recent years, surfistas, Mexican women and girl surfers, have been drawn to the Pacific coastal town’s clean reef-breaking waves. Comer discusses a write-in candidate for mayor of San Diego, whose political activism grew out of surfing and a desire to protect the threatened ecosystems of surf spots; the owners of the girl-focused Paradise Surf Shop in Santa Cruz and Surf Diva in San Diego; and the observant Muslim woman who started a business in her Huntington Beach home, selling swimsuits that fully cover the body and head. Comer also examines the Roxy Girl series of novels sponsored by the surfwear company Quiksilver, the biography of the champion surfer Lisa Andersen, the Gidget novels and films, the movie Blue Crush, and the book Surf Diva: A Girl’s Guide to Getting Good Waves. She develops the concept of “girl localism” to argue that the experience of fighting for waves and respect in male-majority surf breaks, along with advocating for the health and sustainable development of coastal towns and waterways, has politicized surfer girls around the world. |
| surfing and health book: Under the Wave at Waimea Paul Theroux, 2021-04-22 From renowned writer Paul Theroux comes a dazzling novel following a big-wave surfer in Hawaii as he confronts ageing, privilege and mortality 'It was as if in surfing he was carving his name in water, invisibly, joyously.' Joe Sharkey knows he is passed his prime. Now in his sixties, the younger surfers around the breaks on the north shore of Oahu still revere him as the once-legendary 'Shark', but his sponsors have moved on, and Joe wonders what new future awaits him on the horizon. Uninterrupted quality time with the ocean, he hopes. Life has other plans. When he accidentally hits and kills a man near Waimea while drunk-driving, he fears he will never rebound. Under the direction of his stubbornly loyal girlfriend Olive, he throws himself into uncovering his victim's story. But what they find in Max Mulgrave is entirely unexpected: a shared history - and refuge in the sea. Set on the stunning Hawaiian coast, Theroux captures the glory and nostalgia of looking back at a rich and adventurous past, whilst learning to ride out life's next unexpected wave. '[Paul Theroux's] writing skills are disciplined and muscular, his ear as finely tuned as a musician's, his eye sharper than any razor' Daily Mail |
| surfing and health book: The Finest Line Rusty Long, 2015-04-14 The Finest Line explores the world of big-wave surfing and it’s dynamic evolution. Through images of hallmark days from the best big-wave locations around the world, firsthand accounts from those who dedicate their lives to chasing and riding giant waves, and expert commentary about the treacherous characteristics of each location, The Finest Line offers an unprecedented glimpse into the psychology of big-wave surfing, as well as its extreme risks and unparalleled rewards. Big-wave surfing has long been a part of the sport, but this subculture of the surf world is now moving out of the fringes. The current generation of surfers is continually reinventing the limits, making this the most advanced, dynamic, and exciting period in big-wave surfing history. This stunning coffee table book captures the essence of the sport through breathtaking images and stories, as well as exclusive interviews with the surfers who play the starring roles during these rare, large-swell events. Here you discover the complex logistics behind staging missions to the Cortes Bank, a phantom reef 100 miles out to sea; the mental and physical regimens of surfers such as Shane Dorian, Greg Long, and Grant “Twiggy” Baker; the psychology of living in pursuit of the world’s meanest waves; the stories behind the paddle-in renaissance that has come to define the next level of big-wave surfing; and firsthand accounts of those now-rare “tow-only” days that captivate audiences worldwide. More than a collection of big-wave photographs, The Finest Line covers the giant, hallmark sessions from the most impressive spots around the globe, capturing the international flavor of the sport and exploring the insatiable drive of a rare breed of thrill seekers. |
Oregon Surf Guide, North coast surf breaks
ALL spots are dangerous in big surf, some more unforgiving than others. If you are struggling to get outside, you're probably better off NOT making it out. Better safe and on the beach than …
Oregon Surf Guide, South coast surf breaks
ALL spots are dangerous in big surf, some more unforgiving than others. If you are struggling to get outside, you're probably better off NOT making it out. Better safe and on the beach than …
Serving Oregon's surf community with live surf cams, surf reports ...
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This is the OregonSurf.com Foecast landing page. Proceed to the ...
If you are a beginner, go to the Surfing Tips page for valuable info and then consult the Oregon Surf Guide pages for advice on where to surf. For specific surf forecasts – including nearby …
Surf lessons and camps in Oregon.
Art of Surfing Seaside 503-440-5017 www.artofsurfing.net. NW Surf Lessons Cannon Beach - Manzanita 503-440-5765 nwsurflessons.com. NW Womens Surf Camps Seaside/Cannon …
Interesting Stab Article: How Does Body Type Affect Your Surfing?
Oct 29, 2024 · One of the most unique things about surfing is the ability to shape your equipment to match both your physique and the waves you want to surf. For instance, Griffin and Kolohe …
Surfing Moorea? | SURFER Magazine Forum | Surf News, Fantasy …
Jan 22, 2023 · REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials …
Red eyes after surfing | SURFER Magazine Forum | Surf News, …
Jul 6, 2003 · Hi Surf Doc, Ever since I started surfing (more than 15 years ago), I've suffered from severe eye redness after sessions. Factors that seem to contribute (though not necessarily in …
As a surfer.com user , what are your surfing related values
Sep 4, 2024 · REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials …
***Official Pro Surfers who Quit Surfing*** thread
Mar 20, 2023 · He said James Arness loved surfing, was decent for such a big dude, and was a pilot with a plane custom beefed up and outfitted for Baja beach landings. Davey would …
Oregon Surf Guide, North coast surf breaks
ALL spots are dangerous in big surf, some more unforgiving than others. If you are struggling to get outside, you're probably better off NOT making it …
Oregon Surf Guide, South coast surf breaks
ALL spots are dangerous in big surf, some more unforgiving than others. If you are struggling to get outside, you're probably better off NOT making it …
Serving Oregon's surf community with live surf cam…
http://adclick.g.doubleclick.net/aclk?sa=L&ai=BxFUSF1wIVdL-OsL9-QPw2YKQCvff7ZMHAAAAEAEgh8LgEjgAWJ ...
This is the OregonSurf.com Foecast landing page. Procee…
If you are a beginner, go to the Surfing Tips page for valuable info and then consult the Oregon Surf Guide pages for advice on where to surf. For …
Surf lessons and camps in Oregon.
Art of Surfing Seaside 503-440-5017 www.artofsurfing.net. NW Surf Lessons Cannon Beach - Manzanita 503-440-5765 nwsurflessons.com. NW …
